1938 Tempo G1200 Gelandewagen German Owners Manual

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Tempo Gelandewagen Operation Manual (English Translation)

The Tempo Gelandewagon is a very special vehicle. Its mobility over all terrain and its extremely strong engine power in relation to its own weight enable performance that is generally not achievable with a wheel-driven motor vehicle. Of course, the driving technology must be adapted to these facts, and for this reason alone it is urgently recommended that every driver entrusted with driving this vehicle familiarises himself with these instructions before the vehicle is put into operation. This booklet also provides instruction about the maintenance of the Tempo-Gelandewagen and its individual parts. This part of the instructions must also be carefully observed. The Tempo-Gelandewagen can only fully fulfill its purpose if it is always ready to start and fully operational in any terrain. Careful maintenance of all parts, for which this booklet gives the necessary practical tips and advice, is essential.

Happy driving!

Description of the individual parts and their maintenance.
The whole structure of the Tempo cross-country vehicle is kept simple. Both of its motors are attached to the chassis tube through holes in the differential housing. While the rear engine assembly is firmly connected to the chassis tube, the front engine assembly can move at a certain angle around the chassis tube. This enables the substructure to move, which practically allows all four driving wheels full traction with the ground in almost every terrain (see drawing no. 1).

Engine
Each of the two engines can work independently and includes a separate starter, a gearbox and a differential with all auxiliary parts, such as carburettor, exhaust, clutch, etc. The engines are lubricated by the gasoline-oil mixture (petroil lubrication). Petroil is mixed in a ratio of 15: 1 (to 15 litres of petrol 1 litre of oil) during the first 800km, and later 20: 1 when the engines have run in. It is important to ensure that the mixture is carried out in a clean gas barrel before filling the fuel tank to ensure the oil and petrol have mixed consistently. Dirt and water must be kept out of the fuel system.

All branded petrols and oils are more or less suitable. Our experience is based on Shell petrol and Shell oil 4x. These two products can therefore be highly recommended.

The more carefully the machines are run in, the better it will do its job later and the longer its operating life will be. The vehicle should therefore not be driven faster than the maximum speed of 30 km / h prescribed during the break-in period in the first 800 to 1000 km. The following top speeds must also be observed after the running-in period:
1st Gear – 15kph
2nd Gear – 25kph
3rd Gear – 35kph
4th Gear – 65kph

Starter
The starters are combined starter, lighting and ignition machines that are directly connected to motors. Apart from regular cleaning of carbon dust (every 2-3000 km) and replacement of the carbon brushes, depending on the wear, you do not need any special maintenance. As far as possible, they are left to do the work. If any intervention is required in the electrical systems, we recommend this is only done by a specialist, preferably at the nearest Bosch office.

Each starter is individually pressed by pressing the corresponding starter button in the cab (left button for the rear, right button for the front machine).

Transmission
The gearboxes are no less demanding when it comes to their care. The main requirements are clean switching with simultaneous disengagement and regular addition of the gear oil.

Shell-Retinax is best used for the lubrication, which is filled through the screw in the upper transmission cover until it has reached the level of the control screw on the front part of the gearbox (see drawing no.2). Transmission oil should be checked and topped up every 14 days if possible. Too much oil, just like too little, is not appropriate here.

Gear shift
The location of the individual gear shifters can be seen in the attached drawing No. 3. The reverse gear is secured by a drop lever.

Shifting is done by disengaging the clutch and firmly moving the gear lever to the desired gear. Of the two shift levers next to the driver's seat, the front lever applies to the front and the rear lever applies to the rear machine. If both machines are used together, both shifters must be linked via the clip mechanism and operated with one handle.

Clutch
The clutch between the engine and transmission are used to connect and disconnect power from the engine. The clutch disconnects the transmission as soon as the driver steps on the clutch pedal. This pedal (left foot pedal in the driver's seat) operates both clutches at the same time. The levers on the clutch housings that are activated must always have a clearance of approx. 5 mm at their lower ends. As soon as you are under tension (due to the coupling ropes attached to this point), the clutch disks loosen, which leads to premature wear and consequent failure of the clutch. The same can happen if the driver leaves his foot on the clutch pedal after switching and clutching, even if only slightly, or tries to slip over terrain by letting the clutch slip when it would be right to shift to the next lower gear. To readjust the release lever, first loosen the counter nut to the set screw (see drawing no. 4a) and then screw it in or out, depending on whether the play of the lever should be increased or decreased.

Duplex chain drive case
The clutch housings need oil to lubricate the duplex chain, which connects the motor and gearbox via the clutch. Here too, Shell-Retinax is best used, which is filled through the filler opening at the top of the clutch housing up to the level of the control opening (b) on the side. Since too much oil affects the function of the clutch, this oil level must be observed as closely as possible.

The differential gear connection is made by a strong roller chain, the so-called drive chain. Here, too, Shell-Retinax for lubrication. The control opening, which also determines the oil level, is located at the front of the differential housing.

Re-tensioning the chain
The drive chain can be replaced easily after removing the upper side chain case cover, if you connect the old and new chains for this purpose and, by pulling out the old chain, it will automatically introduce the new one. However, if the old chain is broken, the entire left front swing arm including the lower (large) chain box cover at the side must be removed, after which the differential housing is exposed for further interventions.

Differentials
Each differential is driven by the drive chain via a chain wheel that is screwed onto the differential cage. In this there are the balancing wheels, which are arranged in planetary form. The lubrication is carried out together with the drive chain with Shell-Retinax oil.

Carburetor
The carburetors are fitted with the nozzle size specified under "technical details". After about 1000 to 2000 km, then a smaller main jet can be used. Both carburetors are operated by a common throttle (middle foot pedal in front of the driver's seat). It is important to thoroughly clean the air filter every 500 km, otherwise the mixture will not receive enough air and the fuel consumption will increase.

Fuel supply

The fuel supply can be switched off fully by the tap under the dashboard for the front tank and below the rear. This is recommended when parking the vehicle overnight or for a long time.

Exhaust
The muffler of each of the two motors is removable and is best cleaned every 5000 km (2-3 months) after pulling out the steaming brush.

Chassis
On the chassis, to which the body is firmly connected, there are a number of lubrication points that have to be lubricated at regular intervals (at least every 14 days if the vehicle is used frequently). Thick-flowing gear oil is used, preferably Shell-Retinax.

The maintenance of the chassis also includes the continuous inspection of all screws and nuts, especially the moving parts, for tightness and, if necessary, their immediate tightening.

Axles
All four axles are driven. They are special cardan shafts that run in support tubes designed as low-swing arms. There are two joints on each axis, which must be lubricated with thick-flowing gear oil (Shell-Retinax) every 6-8 weeks. For this purpose, the screw nipples (see drawing 5a) must be removed beforehand.

If necessary, the PTO shafts are removed by simply pulling the entire axle body out of the support tubes, which must be brought into a horizontal position after the springs have been loosened.

Springs / Suspension
The springs are attached to the swing arm by means of bolts in the differential housing and with plates and bolts. To loosen the upper bolts (on the differential) you need a 17.5 mm spanner.

Brakes
The brakes, both the foot brake (right foot pedal in front of the driver's seat) and the hand brake, are applied to all four wheels. They are designed as inner shoe brakes, and the transmission of braking force takes place from the foot or hand lever on the brake cams through cables running in spiral hoses. The brakes are adjusted either by adjusting the cable holder on the brake cable or by the two set screws in the driver's seat or, for the front brake, by the set screw in front of the bulkhead.

Wheel hubs
The wheel hubs each have 2 sturdy roller bearings. The hubs are filled with Shell roller bearing grease during assembly, which, depending on the use of the vehicle, is sufficient for 1/2 - 3/4 years. Refilling may only be carried out by a specialist, since the installation requires special care and expertise.

Steering
The steering is a worm wheel segment control. Lubrication is provided by the grease nipple at the bottom of the housing. If the dead gear (play) of the steering wheel becomes too large after a while, you can loosen the nuts that connect the lower part of the housing to the upper one a little, so that the dead gear can be adjusted by adjusting the eccentrically designed guide bush for the segment shaft.

The adjusting screw for the control shaft is also located at the lower end of the wheelhouse. If adjustments are required, the best thing to do is to ask the Tempo service representative.

To extend control to the rear wheels for particularly tight curves or in the field, a control shaft leads from the front to the rear unit. By moving the lever next to the driver's seat to the front, the rear pair of wheels is steered in such a way that when the front wheels are turned to the right, the rear wheels turn to the left and vice versa. By moving the lever backwards, the steering of the rear wheels is switched off again. Switching from front wheel steering to four wheel steering can only be done with the wheels pointing straight ahead.

Dashboard
The switches for both engines are located on the dashboard. In the middle is the light switch, the individual settings of which are as follows:
1 = Parking light
0 = light off
2 = Illuminated light (city light)
3 = Headlights

The light switch position allows the ignition key to be inserted, which is turned to the right to switch on the ignition. Switching off is achieved by turning the key to the left. Remove the key when leaving the car.

The speedometer is located above the light switch. The switch on the right is for switching the front engine ignition on and off. The switch to the left of it for the same purpose for the rear motor.

The switch located on the top left next to the speedometer controls the charging of the battery by the two alternators, charging the front battery with the right-hand position, and the rear battery with the left-hand position. When driving with only one engine, the switch must always be switched to the running motor. When running both engines, the alternator should be switched between left and right changed occasionally so that both batteries can be charged.

Fuse box
The fuse box is located under the hood next to the fittings. It is used to hold the fuse (15 amps). It is advisable to always carry some of these fuses as a replacement.

Battery
Both engines are powered by a battery located under the front bonnet. The same can be charged by either the front engine or the rear engine alternator (see "dashboard"). The battery requires regular care and maintenance if it is to be always ready to start. It must be checked for acid density and acid level at least every 4 weeks. It is best to leave this work to a professional, and, if necessary, to charge it at a special power source. Do not confuse the cables when reinserting them! Grease the battery clamp and the connection under the lid well with Shell high-pressure grease red so that they are not eaten away by the acid.

DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS

Despite its double drive units, the whole structure of the Tempo-Gelandewagen is very simple and accordingly easy to drive, especially if the following regulations are observed.

It can be driven with both engines together, or also, either with the front or rear engine alone. If both gearboxes are shifted together, the two shift levers one behind the other, which are located at the front right next to the driver, must be gripped and shifted together with the right hand. If, on the other hand, you only want to drive with the front engine, leave the rear shift lever in neutral and after disengaging the shifters use only the front lever for shifting. The reverse is the case when driving with the rear engine. Make sure that the engines are running at same revolutions as possible when idling. However, the speed of the rear engine may be somewhat higher than the front engine because this engine is more heavily loaded on steep inclines due to the shift in weight. The clutches of both machines must be set evenly in any case, otherwise when starting off in difficult terrain or in very steep inclines, i.e. where one engine is not sufficient, the clutching engine is thrown off and then the other one stops.

The engines are started by the electric starters. It does not matter which engine you start first. If you don't drive too fast on good terrain or on the country road, the best thing to do is drive with one engine. On long stretches it is advisable to use the two engines alternately so that the wear remains constant on both. Just before you get into difficult terrain and you need to drive with both engines, it is best that they are both as warm as possible. The standing engine can also be bump started while the vehicle is in motion. To do this, switch on the ignition, pull the starter flap on which the running engine is switched. After engaging again, the second motor will start after a few revolutions. It is advisable to only start the second engine in third or fourth gear when driving slowly.

The four-wheel steering is only to be used in the field or if it is only to be steered with the front wheels, since the vehicle then steers better. (to switch see under "steering"!).

Driving the off-road vehicle only with front wheel steering presents absolutely no difficulties on the road or on good terrain. However, it is best the driver first gets used to driving with double control, because when driving a curve to the left, for example, the front half of the car swivels to the left, while the rear half goes to the right. It is therefore very important to always take the wheel very quickly in very narrow passages, because otherwise the car can easily get stuck in the opposite direction.

The pulling power (torque) of both engines is very large. It is therefore not necessary to drive at full throttle in difficult terrain or on steep gradients. It is highly recommended to tackle heavy obstacles with the minimum throttle necessary so that there is always a reserve for unforeseen circumstances. The engines would also suffer rapid and unnecessary wear if the speed was too high. However, with steep gradients, care must also be taken that the speed of the motors is not let sag. It is necessary to shift down to the next lowest gear in good time to maintain revs.

After standing for a long time, especially in the cold season, the copper slats in the clutch basket can become stuck to the solidifying oil. In this case, it is practical to first insert the 1st gear with the brakes on and the engine running at idle speed with a short push. The slats will then suddenly come loose. Then, if necessary, restart the engines.

In the case of descending steep, long gradients of over 35 to 40 percent, both engines must be engaged in first gear to relieve the brakes. The braking effect can be increased by switching off the ignition of the rear machine.

It is particularly important to note that you should never drive with brute force, but always with calmness and deliberation to get the most efficiency out of the Tempo SUV.


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1938 Tempo G1200 Gelandewagen Ersatzteilelist (spare parts)

https://tempohanseat.blogspot.com/2013/07/tempo-g1200-all-terrain-vehicle.html

1941 Tempo G1200 User Manual

A line of brand new Tempo G1200's at Vidal & Sohn's Tempo factory in Hamburg.


This is my English translation of a 1941 Tempo G1200 user manual from Finland. Thanks again to the Finnish National Archives for making these documents available.

Tempo G1200
The Vidal & Sohns Tempo G1200 All Terrain-wagon is a specially designed vehicle, whose independent suspension, light weight and remarkably powerful engines make it possible to traverse ground which cannot be covered by other wheeled vehicles. It is clear, however, that driving skill is crucial for the vehicle’s off-road use, and for this reason it is necessary that every driver becomes familiar with the following instructions before actually driving the truck off-road. This user manual also covers the technical details, care and maintenance procedures that must be observed for the all-terrain wagon.

The VIDAL all-terrain wagon can meet the intended tasks only if all of its parts and equipment have been treated in accordance with the instructions and it is therefore essential these instructions strictly observed.

Components and their functions
The VIDAL all-terrain wagon has a simple structure. Both engines are attached through bores in the tube chassis. While the back of the motor is securely attached to the chassis tube, the front motor is able to move around the shaft to a large degree. Mobility is thereby achieved within the substructure, with the result that all four wheels are able to maintain contact and driving capacity on almost any terrain (see drawing No i)


Engine
Each motor operates completely independently since each engine is fitted with a dynastarter and generator, a gearbox and differential, and all necessary fittings, such as carburetor, exhaust pipe, ignition switch, etc. The engines are two-stroke and lubricated by the fuel-oil mixture, which for the first 800 km should be fed a mixture of 20:1 (20 gallons of fuel and 1 liter of SAE 40 oil), and later at a ratio of 25:1. Fuel and oil must be mixed in a clean container before being poured into the fuel tank – please ensure that only good quality fuel and lubricants are used. When mixing the fuel-oil, care must be taken to avoid dirt and water contaminating the mixture.

The more carefully the engine is driven at the beginning, the better the engine will work later and the longer they will last. Therefore, during the first 800 - 1,000 miles, the truck should not be run a higher speed than 30 km/h. Normal driving (after running in) is subject to the following maximum speeds:
1 gear 15 km
2 gear 25 km
3 gear 35 km
4 gear 65 km

Starting Motor
The starter motors are combined with the generators (German: lichtmachines) that are connected directly to the engines. Apart from the regular cleaning of carbon (every 2000-3000 km of driving), and adjustment of the carbon brushes according to the level of wear, the generators and starter motors do not need any special treatment. If repairs are required, these should only be undertaken by a trained professional, preferably by a qualified Bosch technician.

The starter motors may be engaged separately. To start, press the corresponding starter button in the driver’s cabin (the front motor ignition switch is on the left, the rear motor ignition switch is on the right).

Gearbox
Gearbox maintenance is mainly limited to ensuring the correct levels and consistency of oil is maintained. In order to avoid shifting problems the gearbox oil should be checked every 14 days when in use.

The most suitable lubrication in summer is a quality SAE 160 oil. In winter, a 1:1 blended ration of SAE 160 and SAE 40 oil is recommended.

To fill the gearbox, open the oil filler hole and unscrew the oil level hole at the front of the gearbox. Top up the oil through the filler hole until it reaches the oil level hole, then reseal (Figure No 2).


In order to minimize wear when driving, ensure the clutch is engaged and disengaged cleanly and the gear changes are carried out in a calm and proper manner.


Transmission
The different gear shifter positions are described in the attached drawing (No 3). To the rear of the gear shifters is a hand activated lever to lock the two gear shifters together. Activating the lever all enables the gear shifting for both engines to be performed at the same time. By deactivating the lever, either gearbox may be operated independently. The forward gear lever operates the front engine while the rearward gear lever operates the rear engine. Do not operate the independent engines in opposition to each other.

Clutch
Each engine is connected to the gearbox through its own clutch, which enables the engine to be engaged and disengaged. The left hand pedal in front of the driver's seat operates both the front and rear clutches at the same time. The clutch pedal must have about 5mm of play at all times. The clutch cable is susceptible to strain and if it becomes too taut or slack, the clutch may experience premature wear and operational uncertainty. The same effect can also be caused by the driver riding the clutch, even lightly, or trying to overcome terrain roughness by allowing the clutch to slip, instead of dropping down a gear, which would be the correct procedure.

Adjusting the clutch is done as follows:
1. The cable is connected to A.
2. The clutch lever B is set, so that A has 5 mm room to move.
3. The cable is installed in place, i.e. C must be tightened so that A has no place to move around.
4. Test: The engine is set on idle, the hand brake is engaged, the clutch pedal is engaged, the both engines are set to 4th gear, the clutch pedal is slowly disengaged. Both clutches must operate in such manner that when the clutches are disengaged, both engines will stall. If not, the cable leading to the engine that did not stall or stalled too early must be followed, and the cable must be lengthened or shortened at "E".


Duplex chain/chain chamber
Transmission from the gearbox to the differential gear is via strong roller chains. The duplex chain is lubricated via an oil bath in the chain chamber. An inspection opening to allow checking of the chain oil level, is located on the front of the differential housing.


Too generous oiling will adversely affect the clutch operation so ensure that the proper oil level is maintained. Oil is poured into the filling hole until the level of the oil level screw on the side of the chain chamber is reached (drawing No 4b).

The recommended lubricant mixture for summer is a SAE 160 grade oil, while in winter a mixture of SAE 160 and SAE 40 at a ratio of 1:1 is recommended.

Chain Tension
Tightening the chains requires a special clamping device. This job is best left to the VIDAL-Tempo service agent.

Changing the chains
The easiest way to change the chains is to remove the upper side cover of the chain covering and connect the old and the new chain together. When the old chain is pulled away, the new one will be pulled through. If the old chains are in any way damaged, the whole leftmost axle shaft and the chain covering must be taken off in order to reach to the differential.

Differentials
Each of the differentials use of the chain wheel by means of a differential bolted to the cowl. Here are located the balancing wheels and small pulleys. Lubrication is carried out in conjunction with the chain using quality SAE 160 in the summer and a SAE 160 and SAE 40 1:1 blend during winter. The housing has lubrication nipples installed. (see drawing No. 5).


Carburetor
After 2000 km of driving the factory fitted carburetor can, if desired, can be replaced with a smaller main jet. Both carburetors are controlled by a common accelerator pedal (the right foot pedal). It is important that the air cleaner is cleaned every 500 km of driving because otherwise congestion in the cleaner can prevent the air flow and cause and fuel consumption to rise.

Fuel taps
The fuel taps should be closed entirely (e.g. when the vehicle is left standing for more than a night) to prevent the fuel leakage.

Exhaust pipe
Exhaust pipes and silencers are easily removed and must be thoroughly cleaned after every 5000 km of driving (2 to 3 months).

Chassis
The chassis and frame, where it fixes to the bodywork, has set lubrication points which must be lubricated on a regular basis with thick SAE 160 gearbox oil. If the wagon is used regularly, this should be done at least every eighth day. Floor maintenance also includes all the nuts and bolts which are under continuous use and torsion, especially those that have moving parts.

Axles
All four axes of the drive shafts. The special drive shafts pass through the swivel support tubes. Each shaft has two joints, which should be lubricated with thick gearbox SAE 160 oil every 6 to 8 weeks. For lubrication the nipples must be removed.

If drive shaft disassembly is required, it is done by dismounting the differential, placing the shaft in a horizontal position and then pulling the entire shaft support tube out of the springs.

Springs
The springs are mounted to the differential casing with special brackets to the support tubes. A 17.5mm special key is required to detach the bolts (see drawing 5 above).

Brakes
The foot brake (the middle pedal in front of the driver's seat) works on all four wheels. Braking is done by pressing the brake pedal (or by pulling the hand brake lever) which pulls the brake wires running to the brake hubs. Brake adjustment is done either by adjusting at the head of the brake cable or by adjusting the adjustment screw at the brake hub. The front brakes can be adjusted via adjustment screws at the hubs.

Wheel Hubs
In each wheel hub are 2 roller bearings. The hubs are filled with a special installation of roller bearing grease which, depending on the use of the vehicle should last for many years.

Only skilled mechanics should carry out re-greasing of the bearings because the installation requires special care and expertise.

Steering
Steering is a via a worm control. Lubrication points are provided at the lower end of the clamshell housing. Use only quality SAE 160 lubricating grease. If the steering wheel is too loose, it can be adjusted by opening the clamshell housing, and adjusting the screws on the steering shaft that control the looseness of the eccentric sleeve. The steering shaft adjustment screw is located in the bottom of the clamshell housing. More signification steering gear repairs should be performed only by a VIDAL workshop.

Pressing the level next to the drivers seat forward engages rear wheel steering, allowing the rear wheels to move in conjunction with the front. This may be used for offroad driving where dramatic turns are required. Turning the front wheels to the right will turn the rear wheels to the left and vice versa. By pulling the control lever back, the rear wheels will be locked.

Note - Four wheel steering should be exercised only when running on four wheel drive or offroad.

Dashboard
On the instrument panel are the switches for each motor. To the right of the speedometer is the light switch. The positions are as follows:
1 = parking light
o = no light
2 = dim light (city light)
The headlamp is activated by a foot switch

To activate the lights you must engage the key-switch to the ignition circuit. Ignition is achieved by turning the key to the right. To turn off, turn it to the left. Remember to remove the key when leaving to the vehicle!

The red lights above the ignition switch monitor the circuit breakers. The left anterior light monitors the rear engine circuit. The right hand light, the front engine.

On the far right of the circuit-breaker is engine ignition. When setting the ignition is turned to the right it will start the rear engine, and when turned to the left will start the front engine.

When driving with only one engine the circuit breaker is regarded as an existing engine in the corresponding position. Otherwise, it is the position of the circuit-breaker shifts to be replaced, so that both engines would as much under load.(?)

The circuit breakers are located under the hood. They use 15 amp fuses. Ensure you always keep a few fuses handy in the event that a fuse blows.

Battery
Each motor has its own battery. Both are located under the front hood. Their charge is described above (see "Dashboard"). The batteries need regular care in order to ensure they are in good condition to start the motors. At least every four weeks the concentration and quantity of the acid must be examined. Also check that the cables are connected correctly and the battery terminals beneath the battery cover are greased with a suitable grease to prevent acid corrosion.

For more detailed maintenance, however it may be best to leave this task to a trained electrician.



Driving Practices
The VIDAL- all-terrain wagon has two motors and is robustly and simply built and, correspondingly is easy to use when the following guidelines are followed:

• The vehicle can be driven using both engines at the same time or just one of the motors alone.
• When running both engines at the same time, the gear shift levers, located on the right hand side of the driver, need to be linked and used together.
• If running only the foremost engine, the rear engine gear shift lever must be decoupled and left in the free (neutral) position after detachment, the driver operating only the foremost gear lever. If running only the rear engine, proceed vice versa.
• When running the two engines, the engines should be run as closely as possible at the same speed. The rear engine may be run slightly faster than the front as the rear engine will encounter more resistance when pushing the vehicle’s weight.
• In any case, both the motor switches must be in the same position otherwise in difficult terrain or when driving on steep gradients, where one engine is not sufficient and the engine may stall, will subsequently stop the second engine.
• Each engine is started by its own electric starter motor and can be started independently.

Easy terrain and road
When driving at a limited speed it is better to use only one motor. On long journeys, it is good to use the engines in turn to equalize wear. Before moving on to the difficult terrain, both engines should be run so that they are synchronised and equally warmed up.

Four-wheel steering is used only for off-road or turning in a small area. When driving on the street only use the front wheel steering (see "Control").

Off-road driving
Front wheel steering on the streets or good terrain is not recommended, however, the driver must get used to the car’s behavior when driving with dual control, for example, when you turn to the left, the front end turns to the left and the rear end turns to the right. This fact must always be taken into account when driving in a cramped site.

The wagon’s two-stoke motors are powerful enough to overcome even large cross-country obstacles so there is no need to run at full throttle in difficult terrain or steep inclines. On the contrary, it is highly recommended that the inclines are taken at as little throttle as possible so that there is a reserve of power to overcome challenges. Also, the engines suffer increased wear at excessive speed.

However, when tackling steep gradients care must be taken care that the engine speed does not suddenly become too much, but timely shift down into low gear.

Handle with care and caution if towing a trailer off road.

If the car has not been used for a while, especially during the winter, the clutch plates may hold on to each other due to the stiffened oil. The easiest way to separate them is to set to the fourth gear, while the brakes are on, and let the engine pull them apart slowly and easy. This will usually separate the plates during the first try. Anyway, the clutch must be disengaged."

In particular, do not misuse or force any of the controls, switches or devices. Calm and considerate driving will deliver surprisingly good performance.